The San Francisco issue, November 2026
San Francisco
San Francisco is defined by its dramatic topography and the relentless friction between idealism and industry.
Plan your San Francisco trip
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Guests & rooms
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The San Francisco reading list
All 25 San Francisco stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Doing Time in San Francisco's Alcatraz Cellhouse
You board a timed ferry at Pier 33, climb to the cellblock and hear a 45-minute audio tour narrated by former guards and inmates.
Jonas Bakker
Tours and tickets
San Francisco Chinatown by Bus and on Foot in October 2026
Use the open-top loops for the few things they do well, then spend the rest of your time in the alleys, tea rooms and banquet halls they drive straight past.
Jonas Bakker
Tours and tickets
San Francisco's Bay Bridge and Where to Actually See It
The west span is not walkable, the lights are back on, and the bridge works far better as an evening visit than a daytime photo stop. Here is how to plan that evening.
Jonas Bakker
Outrunning San Francisco's Fog Belt in a Single Day
A west-to-east itinerary from the murk at Lands End to a sunlit Mission roof, with nine stops picked for how they deal with the weather around them.
Jonas Bakker
48 Hours on San Francisco Bay by Commuter Ferry
The Marin and East Bay boats cross the same water as the tour cruises for a third of the fare. Here is how to build two days around them, from the Ferry Building out to Angel Island and back.
Jonas Bakker
More from the San Francisco issue
The Park Between Two Seas: Golden Gate Park Beyond the Postcard
Jonas Bakker
Riding San Francisco's Fog Line From Ocean Beach to the Mission
Jonas Bakker
Richmond District, San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Chinatown, San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Mission District, San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Karl Comes Home: How the Fog Made San Francisco
Jonas Bakker
Sunset at Land's End: San Francisco's Wild Coastal Edge Where the City Meets the Pacific
Jonas Bakker
North Beach, San Francisco: the Neighbourhood Guide
Jonas Bakker
Pacific Heights, San Francisco: The Neighbourhood Guide
Jonas Bakker
Haight-Ashbury, San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Tours and tickets
Haight-Ashbury by Bus in San Francisco's Foggy September 2026
Jonas Bakker
SOMA (South of Market), San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Tours and tickets
Sea Lions and Sourdough at San Francisco's Wharf in October
Jonas Bakker
Marina, San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Castro, San Francisco: the neighbourhood guide
Jonas Bakker
Walking the Buried Gold Rush Fleet Under San Francisco
Jonas Bakker
The City in 400 Stairways: San Francisco's Hidden Pedestrian Grid
Jonas Bakker
How San Francisco's Cable Cars Actually Work
Jonas Bakker
Where the Jukebox Still Takes Quarters: San Francisco's Last Real Dive Bars
Jonas Bakker
San Francisco's Victorians: The Houses the 1906 Quake Spared
Jonas Bakker
An insider’s read on San Francisco
Born as a Spanish mission and transformed overnight by the 1849 Gold Rush, San Francisco has always been a magnet for fortune-seekers and outcasts. The catastrophic 1906 earthquake and subsequent fire leveled the city, but the rapid rebuild established its modern grid. In the mid-20th century, it became the global epicenter of counterculture, from the Beat poets in North Beach to the Summer of Love in Haight-Ashbury and the pioneering gay rights struggle in the Castro.
Today, the tech boom has brought immense wealth alongside stark inequality, creating a tense, hyper-progressive environment where historic preservation clashes with rapid modernization.
The city does not ease you in; it forces you to climb its forty-degree inclines
From our San Francisco guide
Nine neighbourhoods, nine ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Mission District
Food lovers and nightlife seekers. Trade-off: certain blocks can feel gritty, and street trash is common.
A historic Latino neighborhood overlaid with tech-fueled gentrification, filled with murals, independent bookstores, and backyard beer gardens.
Where to stay Look for boutique guesthouses or apartment rentals; traditional hotels are scarce here.
Stay in Mission District
North Beach
Walkers, coffee purists, and literature fans. Trade-off: parking is impossible and weekends get loud with bar-hoppers.
The city's Italian quarter, steeped in Beat Generation history, neon-lit cafes, and old-school red-sauce joints.
Where to stay Boutique hotels and historic inns near Washington Square Park.
Stay in North Beach
Chinatown
Cultural explorers and budget diners. Trade-off: extremely crowded sidewalks and early evening closures.
One of the oldest and largest Chinese enclaves outside Asia, packed with herbalists, dim sum parlors, and temples.
Where to stay Stay on the borders near Union Square or Financial District for better hotel options.
Stay in Chinatown
Pacific Heights
Architecture admirers and those seeking quiet luxury. Trade-off: very expensive dining and far from rapid transit lines.
An affluent enclave of multi-million dollar Victorian mansions, manicured parks, and high-end boutiques along Fillmore Street.
Where to stay Historic mansions converted into high-end bed and breakfasts.
Stay in Pacific Heights
Haight-Ashbury
Vintage shoppers and music historians. Trade-off: heavy tourist crowds and a visible population of transient youth.
The birthplace of the 1960s counterculture, now a mix of vintage clothing stores, record shops, and Victorian architecture.
Where to stay Historic Victorian bed and breakfasts or nearby rentals.
Stay in Haight-Ashbury
SOMA (South of Market)
Art enthusiasts and business travelers. Trade-off: lacks neighborhood cohesion and has pockets of extreme street homelessness.
A vast, industrial-turned-tech district featuring modern high-rises, warehouses, contemporary art museums, and tech headquarters.
Where to stay High-rise luxury hotels and modern business-oriented properties.
Stay in SOMA (South of Market)
Castro
LGBTQ+ travelers and nightlife fans. Trade-off: limited hotel options and steep hills.
The historic heart of the global LGBTQ+ rights movement, marked by rainbow crosswalks, historic theaters, and lively bars.
Where to stay Local guesthouses and apartment rentals.
Stay in Castro
Richmond District
Foodies looking for authentic Asian cuisine away from tourists. Trade-off: foggy, cold, and a long bus ride from downtown.
A foggy, residential neighborhood known as 'New Chinatown,' offering incredible East Asian dining and proximity to the ocean.
Where to stay Residential rentals and small local motels.
Stay in Richmond District
Marina
Active travelers and brunch enthusiasts. Trade-off: can feel monocultural and lacks direct rail transit.
A flat, sun-drenched neighborhood with Art Deco buildings, fitness-conscious young professionals, and views of the Golden Gate.
Where to stay Mid-range motels along Lombard Street or boutique options near the water.
Stay in MarinaBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in San Francisco, with live prices from Viator.
Classic Sidecar Tour of San Francisco
from $280
Private Muir Woods Tour + Golden Gate Bridge Stops (3 Hrs, Max 6)
from $203
Blue Painted Lady House Tour - Interior Guided Tour by Owner
from $35
SF's North Beach: Gourmet Ghost Tour Including Full Meal
from $115
Private San Francisco Open-Air Jeep Tour (3 Hours, Max 6)
from $273
Haight Ashbury Walking Tour – SF's Bohemian Past
from $37
Private Guided Tour in San Francisco
from $435
San Francisco Cooking Class: Dumpling Making from Scratch
from $149
Prices from Viator; we may earn a commission when you book — at no extra cost to you. Tours are sold and operated by Viator, the merchant of record. Ratings are collected by Viator and Tripadvisor.
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The San Francisco guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Swan Oyster Depot
A historic, counter-only seafood institution operating since 1912.
Signature: Sicilian Sashimi
Sotto Mare
Authentic Italian-style seafood served in a lively, nostalgic dining room.
Signature: Cioppino
Hog Island Oyster Co.
Unbeatable bay views inside the historic Ferry Building.
Signature: Sweetwater Oysters
Anchor Oyster Bar
A tiny, neighborhood spot serving pristine shellfish since the 1970s.
Signature: Steamed Clams
Woodhouse Fish Co.
Casual, New England-style seafood shack with West Coast ingredients.
Signature: Dungeness Crab Roll
Hook Fish Co.
Sells sustainably sourced, line-caught fish near Ocean Beach.
Signature: Grilled Fish Tacos
Pacific Cafe
Classic neighborhood joint that serves free wine while you wait in line.
Signature: Halibut Fish & Chips
Tadich Grill
California's oldest continuously running restaurant, serving classic seafood since 1849.
Signature: Mesquite-grilled Petrale Sole
Broad Street Oyster Co.
Modern, casual seafood spot bringing Southern California style to the bay.
Signature: Lobster Roll with Caviar
House of Prime Rib
An iconic English-style carvery where prime rib is carved tableside from silver carts.
Signature: King Henry VIII Cut
Harris' Restaurant
Classic mid-century steakhouse elegance with leather booths and live jazz.
Signature: Dry-aged Bone-in Ribeye
Lolinda
A lively, multi-level Argentine steakhouse serving wood-fired meats and excellent cocktails.
Signature: Asado Argentinian Grill
Niku Steakhouse
A Michelin-starred, modern Japanese steakhouse centered around a binchotan charcoal grill.
Signature: A5 Wagyu Tasting
Epic Steak
Offers dramatic, close-up views of the Bay Bridge alongside high-quality cuts.
Signature: Wood-grilled Tomahawk
John's Grill
Historic downtown steakhouse famous for its appearance in the novel The Maltese Falcon.
Signature: Sam Spade Lamb Chops
Izzy's Brooklyn Steaks
A casual, neighborhood steakhouse serving classic cuts and creamed spinach since 1987.
Signature: New York Strip
Bobo's
Quirky, Venetian-themed steakhouse known for its iron-skillet roasted meats and crab.
Signature: Bone-in Filet Mignon
Original Joe's
A beloved Italian-American grill with deep roots and red leather booths.
Signature: Joe's Special
State Bird Provisions
Serves inventive, globally-influenced Californian small plates dim-sum style on carts.
Signature: Deep-fried State Bird
Liholiho Yacht Club
Energetic spot blending Hawaiian, heritage Chinese, and Californian flavors.
Signature: Tuna Poke on Nori Crackers
Zuni Café
A culinary landmark famous for its wood-fired brick oven and classic Californian philosophy.
Signature: Roasted Chicken for Two
Foreign Cinema
Diners eat California-Mediterranean fare in an outdoor courtyard while films project on a concrete wall.
Signature: Sesame Fried Chicken
Coqueta
Waterfront Spanish tapas bar serving modern interpretations of classic Iberian dishes.
Signature: Jamón Ibérico Croquetas
Rich Table
High-energy neighborhood restaurant serving whimsical, ingredient-driven local dishes.
Signature: Porcini Doughnuts
Frances
Intimate neighborhood bistro serving refined, market-driven Californian cuisine.
Signature: Applewood Smoked Bacon Beignets
Esperpento
A long-running, unpretentious neighborhood spot serving traditional Spanish tapas.
Signature: Patatas Bravas
Atelier Crenn
Dominique Crenn's three-Michelin-starred temple of poetic, sustainable French-Californian gastronomy.
Signature: Multi-course Grand Tasting Menu
Benu
Corey Lee's three-Michelin-starred masterpiece blending technical precision with East Asian flavors.
Signature: Xiao Long Bao with Foie Gras
Quince
Refined, three-Michelin-starred Italian-Californian dining sourcing directly from its own organic farm.
Signature: Freshly Extruded Pasta
Saison
Focuses on pristine local ingredients cooked over open wood fire in an intimate, relaxed setting.
Signature: Wood-fired Sea Urchin
Lazy Bear
Starts as a dinner party where guests gather around communal tables to discuss highly creative dishes.
Signature: Communal Tasting Menu
Californios
Val Cantu's two-Michelin-starred venue elevating Mexican cuisine to ultra-refined heights.
Signature: Sourdough Tortilla with Caviar
Acquerello
A formal, jacket-required Italian fine dining institution operating inside a former chapel.
Signature: Ridged Pasta with Foie Gras
Gary Danko
Classic, old-school luxury service with a legendary cheese cart and French-Californian menu.
Signature: Glazed Oysters with Osetra Caviar
Birdsong
Focuses on heritage cooking techniques of the Pacific Northwest, emphasizing fire and smoke.
Signature: Pine-needle Smoked Trout
La Taqueria
Famous for its rice-free, crispy-grilled burritos that define the Mission style.
Signature: El Dorado-style Carnitas Burrito
Taqueria El Farolito
The ultimate late-night dining spot, serving massive, perfect burritos until 3 AM.
Signature: Super Quesadilla
Golden Boy Pizza
A window serving thick, focaccia-style square slices to late-night crowds.
Signature: Clam and Garlic Sheet Pizza
Good Mong Kok Bakery
A tiny, take-out-only bakery with legendary lines for cheap, massive dim sum.
Signature: Pork Shu Mai
Yamo
A counter-only Burmese shack with just ten stools and incredibly cheap, fast stir-fries.
Signature: House Noodles with Beef
San Tung
Famous for its sweet, spicy, and incredibly crispy glazed chicken wings.
Signature: Dry Fried Chicken Wings
Sai Jai Thai
Unpretentious Tenderloin spot serving authentic, spicy Northern Thai dishes.
Signature: Pork Leg over Rice
Molinari Delicatessen
A historic Italian deli operating since 1896, where you pick your own bread from a bin.
Signature: Renzo Special Sandwich
Tu Lan
Gritty but legendary Vietnamese diner praised by culinary icons for its bold flavors.
Signature: Imperial Rolls
Greens Restaurant
Opened in 1979 by the San Francisco Zen Center, pioneering upscale vegetarian dining with bay views.
Signature: Wild Mushroom Tart
Shizen Vegan Sushi
A wildly popular vegan sushi bar using innovative plant-based ingredients to replicate seafood textures.
Signature: Hidden Dragon Roll
Wildseed
A chic, plant-based restaurant and bar serving seasonal, globally-inspired dishes.
Signature: Spicy Yellow Curry Bowl
Cha-Ya
A family-run, entirely vegan Japanese restaurant specializing in clean, traditional flavors.
Signature: Tempura Soba
Golden Era
A spacious, casual spot serving delicious, entirely vegan Asian fusion dishes.
Signature: Spicy Lemongrass Chicken
Nourish Cafe
A bright, health-focused cafe serving organic, oil-free plant-based bowls and wraps.
Signature: Nourish Bowl
Judahlicious
A laid-back, raw and vegan cafe catering to surfers near Ocean Beach.
Signature: Jungle Bowl
Rad Radish
A colorful, fast-casual plant-based spot serving comfort food and organic wines.
Signature: Vegan Cheeseburger
After dark
Nightlife
Public Works
A multi-room warehouse space hosting world-class underground house and techno DJs.
Halcyon
A 24-hour licensed cabaret hosting top-tier electronic music in a converted brick warehouse.
DNA Lounge
A legendary, multi-level venue hosting eclectic dance nights, live music, and late-night pizza.
Monarch
Features a basement dance floor with a custom sound system and a stylish upstairs cocktail lounge.
Audio SF
Designed specifically for electronic music with a 3D surround sound system and retro-futuristic decor.
Great Northern
Features high ceilings, custom projection mapping, and a massive sound system for electronic music.
Temple
A massive, multi-level club with an LED-lit dance floor and mainstream EDM headliners.
Madrone Art Bar
Blends rotating art exhibitions with nightly dance parties ranging from Motown to Prince.
Cat Club
A long-running venue famous for its retro 80s, goth, and industrial dance nights.
Trick Dog
Renowned for its highly creative, thematic menus designed as calendars, records, or poetry books.
Smuggler's Cove
A world-famous tiki bar housing over 500 rums and historically accurate exotic cocktails.
Charmaine's Rooftop
A stylish rooftop lounge perched 120 feet above Market Street with fire pits and chic decor.
Li Po Cocktail Lounge
A historic, divey Chinatown institution famous for its incredibly strong Chinese Mai Tais.
Pacific Cocktail Haven
Serves award-winning cocktails featuring Asian-inspired ingredients like pandan, miso, and lychee.
True Laurel
The cocktail-focused sibling to Lazy Bear, serving ultra-refined drinks and elevated bar snacks.
Bourbon & Branch
A strict, reservation-only speakeasy operating in a real Prohibition-era drinking den.
Cold Drinks Bar
A sleek, hidden luxury bar specializing in high-end Scotch whisky cocktails inside China Live.
The Fillmore
A legendary venue that hosted Hendrix and the Dead, famous for its free apples and historic posters.
SFJAZZ Center
A state-of-the-art, acoustically perfect auditorium dedicated entirely to jazz and global music.
The Independent
An intimate venue with great sightlines hosting rising indie, hip-hop, and electronic acts.
Great American Music Hall
A grand, ornate 1907 music hall featuring gilded balconies and frescoed ceilings.
Bottom of the Hill
The city's premier dive venue for indie rock, punk, and up-and-coming local bands.
Bimbo's 365 Club
A historic, red-velvet-draped supper club hosting retro acts, cover bands, and indie artists.
The Chapel
A converted 1914 mortuary chapel featuring high arched ceilings and excellent acoustics.
Rickshaw Stop
A quirky, former TV studio hosting indie pop bands, DJ nights, and offbeat cultural events.
Cafe Du Nord
A historic basement venue that has hosted intimate live music shows since 1907.
Art & history
Culture
SFMOMA
One of the largest modern and contemporary art museums in the world, featuring a massive living wall.
de Young Museum
Houses American art, textiles, and African art in a striking copper building with a free observation tower.
California Academy of Sciences
Features an indoor rainforest, a planetarium, a massive aquarium, and a living roof.
Legion of Honor
A neoclassical palace overlooking the Golden Gate, housing European paintings and Rodin sculptures.
Exploratorium
A highly interactive museum of science, art, and human perception located on Pier 15.
Asian Art Museum
Houses one of the most comprehensive collections of Asian art in the Western world.
Cable Car Museum
A working museum where you can see the actual giant engines and cables pulling the city's cable cars.
Golden Gate Bridge
The iconic Art Deco suspension bridge spanning the entrance to the San Francisco Bay.
Alcatraz Island
The infamous former federal penitentiary that once held Al Capone, accessible only by ferry.
Coit Tower
A 210-foot tower offering panoramic views and historic WPA murals depicting Great Depression-era life.
Painted Ladies
The famous row of pastel-colored Victorian homes set against the modern downtown skyline.
Palace of Fine Arts
A monumental Greco-Roman rotunda and colonnade built for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition.
Ferry Building
A historic transit hub turned world-class food hall showcasing local artisans and farmers.
Grace Cathedral
A grand French Gothic cathedral famous for its labyrinth, stained glass, and Keith Haring altarpiece.
City Hall
A majestic Beaux-Arts monument featuring a dome taller than the United States Capitol.
Transamerica Pyramid
The city's most recognizable modernist skyscraper, recently renovated with a public redwood park at its base.
Minnesota Street Project
A massive, converted industrial warehouse housing multiple contemporary art galleries under one roof.
Fraenkel Gallery
A premier gallery specializing in museum-quality photography from the medium's inception to today.
Jessica Silverman Gallery
A highly influential gallery representing internationally recognized contemporary artists across diverse media.
Berggruen Gallery
Specializes in modern and contemporary American and European paintings, prints, and sculptures.
Catharine Clark Gallery
Focuses on cutting-edge contemporary art with an emphasis on media-based and narrative work.
Jenkins Johnson Gallery
Represents international contemporary artists, with a strong focus on artists of color.
111 Minna Gallery
A hybrid art gallery and bar hosting vibrant exhibitions, DJ nights, and film screenings.
Hosfelt Gallery
A spacious, light-filled gallery presenting conceptually rigorous contemporary art.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
March to May brings mild temperatures and wildflower blooms in the parks, though ocean breezes remain cool.
Summer
June to August is notoriously cold and foggy. Locals wear heavy jackets while tourists freeze in shorts.
Autumn
September to November is the prime season. The fog clears, temperatures rise, and the city is bathed in warm, golden light.
Winter
December to February is the rainy season. It is chilly and wet, but crowds thin out and hotel rates drop significantly.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
BART trains run directly from SFO to downtown stations like Powell and Montgomery in about thirty minutes. Ride-hailing apps are highly active but subject to surge pricing.
Public transit
Muni operates buses, light rail, and historic streetcars. The iconic cable cars are historic but slow and expensive, best treated as an attraction rather than transit.
Passes & tickets
The Clipper card is essential and works across all transit systems. A Muni Visitor Passport offers unlimited rides on Muni and cable cars for a set number of days (medium price band).
On foot
Highly walkable within individual neighborhoods, but the steep hills make walking between districts a serious physical workout.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Always tip 18-20% at sit-down restaurants. Note that many restaurants add a 'SF Mandate' surcharge of 4-5% for employee healthcare; this is not the tip.
- Stand on the right and walk on the left when using escalators in BART stations.
- Never refer to the city as 'Frisco' or 'San Fran'—locals call it 'The City' or simply 'SF'.
- Always dress in layers. The weather can drop 15 degrees in minutes when the fog rolls in.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Buy a Clipper card on your phone before arriving to seamlessly ride BART, Muni, and ferries.
- Book Alcatraz tickets at least a month in advance, as they sell out completely during peak seasons.
- Always look at the street signs carefully when parking; street sweeping rules are strictly enforced with hefty fines.
- To avoid the longest lines at Swan Oyster Depot, arrive 30 minutes before they open.
- Wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip; the steep hills can be slippery, especially when foggy or wet.
- Use the free observation deck at the de Young Museum for panoramic views of the park and city without paying museum admission.
Before you go
San Francisco FAQs
When is the best time to see the Golden Gate Bridge without fog?
Late morning or early afternoon in September and October. Summer months are notoriously foggy, often obscuring the bridge entirely.
Is it worth riding the cable cars?
Yes, but avoid the massive lines at the Powell Street turnaround. Walk up a few blocks to board, or ride the less crowded California Street line instead.
What is the 'SF Mandate' on my restaurant bill?
It is a local government-mandated surcharge to fund healthcare for restaurant workers. It is not a tip, so you should still tip your server.
Do I need a car in San Francisco?
No, parking is incredibly expensive and difficult, and car break-ins are rampant. Public transit and rideshares are much easier.
Why is it so cold in the summer?
The city's hot inland valleys draw cold ocean air and fog through the Golden Gate, creating a natural refrigerator effect.